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THE CHECKLIST / LEVEL 2 SCOPE

The house survey
checklist.

Every element a surveyor works through on a Level 2 inspection, in the order they work through it. Take it to a viewing, or read it before the report arrives so you know what each rating is attached to.

Price a Level 2 from £335 →

THE ANSWER / READ THIS FIRST

Eight groups. Around fifty elements. Each one rated 1, 2 or 3, with the reasoning attached.

A Level 2 survey is not an impression of a house. It is a structured pass through defined elements — outside in, top down — where every accessible item is inspected, rated and explained. The checklist below is that structure, written out in full so you can see exactly what the fee buys.

01 / THE FULL LIST

What gets checked.

Print this page and take it to a viewing, or keep it beside the report. Anything a surveyor could not reach on the day is recorded as a limitation rather than quietly left out — so read those notes as carefully as the ratings.

01The roof, from outside

  • Coverings — slipped, cracked, missing or repaired tiles and slates
  • Ridge, hips and verges — bedding, pointing and secureness
  • Flashings and valleys around abutments and junctions
  • Flat roof coverings, falls, upstands and visible ponding
  • Chimney stacks — leaning, brickwork, pointing, flaunching and pots
  • Gutters, downpipes and hoppers — alignment, leaks, staining below

02Walls and structure

  • Construction type and apparent age — solid, cavity, stone, timber frame
  • Cracking — pattern, width, location and whether it looks progressive
  • Bulging, leaning or distortion in walls and lintels
  • Pointing, render, cladding and any spalling brickwork
  • Damp-proof course — present, bridged, or below external ground level
  • Airbricks and sub-floor ventilation, blocked or obstructed

03Windows, doors and joinery

  • Frames and sills — rot, decay, corrosion and failed seals
  • Glazing — cracked units, misted double glazing, safety glass where needed
  • Opening and closing spot-checked on a sample of windows and doors
  • External doors, thresholds and weathering
  • Fascias, soffits, bargeboards and external timber
  • Signs of past repair, replacement or unauthorised alteration

04The roof space

  • Access, and whether safe entry was possible on the day
  • Roof timbers — rafters, purlins, trusses, notching and past alteration
  • Sarking felt or membrane, or the absence of one
  • Water staining, active leaks and daylight through the covering
  • Insulation — depth, coverage and condition
  • Woodworm, rot, vermin and nesting evidence
  • Tank, pipework and any visible services within the roof void

05Ceilings, walls and floors inside

  • Ceilings — cracking, sagging, staining and lath-and-plaster condition
  • Internal walls — cracking, damp patches and evidence of removed walls
  • Moisture readings taken at vulnerable points where appropriate
  • Floors — level, springiness, visible movement and floor construction
  • Skirtings, architraves and internal joinery
  • Cellars and basements where accessible — damp, ventilation, tanking
  • Fireplaces, flues and any visible signs of blocked or unlined chimneys

06Services, as far as visible

  • Consumer unit — type, apparent age and visible condition
  • Visible wiring, sockets and switches; obviously outdated installations
  • Boiler — type, apparent age, location and any visible service record
  • Radiators, pipework, controls and hot water arrangements
  • Gas meter, supply and any visible flue arrangements
  • Visible plumbing, waste pipes and evidence of leaks
  • Drainage — inspection chamber lifted where accessible and safe
  • Ventilation and extract to kitchens and bathrooms

07Grounds and boundaries

  • External ground levels relative to the damp-proof course
  • Paths, drives, patios and steps — condition and drainage away from walls
  • Trees and large shrubs near the building, and their likely influence
  • Boundary walls, fences and retaining structures
  • Garages, outbuildings and permanent structures within the grounds
  • Japanese knotweed and other invasive plants, where visible

08Flags for your conveyancer

  • Apparent alterations or extensions needing consent or certification
  • Evidence of work that may need a guarantee or warranty to be passed on
  • Shared drives, rights of way and access arrangements observed on site
  • Party wall matters suggested by the arrangement of the buildings
  • Listed status, conservation area or other apparent statutory constraints
  • Anything the surveyor could not inspect, and what should be asked instead

02 / THE OTHER LIST

What is deliberately not on it.

No floorboards lifted, no furniture moved, no structure opened up. Services are observed rather than tested, so a survey is not a gas safety check, an electrical certificate or a drainage camera survey. There is no asbestos sampling and no valuation. None of that is corner-cutting — it is the defined scope of a non-invasive inspection, and the skill lies in how much a good surveyor reads from what is visible. Where a visible sign points at something concealed, the report names the specialist you need next. What a survey checks on services →

03

03 / THE RATINGS

One, two, three —
and what each costs you.

Rating 1 means no repair is currently needed. Rating 2 means a defect requiring repair or replacement, but not serious or urgent. Rating 3 means serious, urgent, or both — investigate or repair without delay.

The practical rule is that ambers are homework and reds are action. Get a quote for every 2 and every 3 before you exchange, because that is the only point at which the findings still have negotiating value. See the ratings in a real report →

04

04 / BEFORE THE INSPECTION

Tell the surveyor
what is worrying you.

Go through this checklist after your second viewing and note anything you have already seen: a stain on a bedroom ceiling, a door that will not close, a wall that looks newly plastered, an extension nobody has mentioned paperwork for. Raise those with the surveyor before the inspection, not after the report.

Every SurveyChoice booking includes that conversation with the practice for exactly this reason. A surveyor who knows what you are worried about spends their time where it matters to you, and the report answers your questions rather than only the standard ones.

05 / MATCH THE LIST TO THE HOUSE

Older or altered? The same list, read harder.

For a pre-1930 property, an extended or converted one, or anything visibly tired, a Level 3 works the same elements in more depth and adds causes and repair options. The 20-second checker will tell you which one your property needs, and the price register shows both totals before you enter any contact details.

STRAIGHT ANSWERS

Before you ask.

01What is on a Level 2 house survey checklist?+

Every visible and accessible element of the property: roof coverings and structure, chimneys, rainwater goods, walls, damp-proofing, windows and doors, roof space, ceilings, internal walls, floors, joinery, the visible parts of the electrical, gas, heating and drainage installations, and the grounds and boundaries. Each one receives a condition rating of 1, 2 or 3.

02Is this checklist the same as the surveyor's own?+

It follows the element structure set out in the RICS Home Survey Standard, which is what a Level 2 report is built around. An individual surveyor's site notes will go further in places, and will add anything specific to the property in front of them.

03Can I use this checklist to inspect a house myself?+

Use it to view a property with better questions and to know what you should be told about. It is not a substitute for an inspection: a surveyor is reading construction type, age, likely causes and consequences from what they see, and carries professional indemnity insurance for the opinion they give.

04What do the condition ratings 1, 2 and 3 mean?+

Rating 1 means no repair is currently needed. Rating 2 means a defect that needs repair or replacement but is not serious or urgent. Rating 3 means a defect that is serious, urgent, or both — and needs to be investigated or fixed without delay.

05What is not on the checklist?+

Anything concealed or inaccessible, anything requiring the structure to be opened up, live testing of services, asbestos sampling, and valuation. A standard house survey is visual and non-invasive by design; where something visible suggests a deeper problem, the report recommends the right specialist.

06Does a Level 3 survey use a longer checklist?+

The same elements, examined in more depth. A Level 3 adds analysis: not just that a wall is cracked, but why, how urgent it is, and what the realistic repair options and likely consequences of inaction are.

07What should I do with the checklist before the survey?+

Note anything you have already seen or been told about — a stain on a ceiling, a door that will not close, a recent extension — and raise it with the surveyor before the inspection. A surveyor who knows what is worrying you will spend their time where it matters most to you.

KEEP GOINGGet my fixed price →Next guide: Red flags, read properly →